The lady on the bus from the airport to Las Palmas says “mi cielo” pointedly. I glance reflexively over my shoulder before I realise she is addressing me, a stranger, as “my sky.” I move out of her way and am thanked with “ohh, gracias, cariño” (“ohh, thank you, darling”) before — noticing I am travelling alone — she asks me where I am going and why. Within a couple of minutes, she has texted her daughter who lives in Vegueta and opened up her camera roll to show me which buildings offer the best glimpses of the city’s sunset skylines.